Makin' it Through the Rough

Pre post note: I apologize for not adding pictures to this post. When you read about internet in New Zealand in this post you will understand why. Please follow the links to your right to view all of our albums through my facebook page :)

---------------------

Queenstown is absolutely beautiful. We arrived last week with butterflies in our stomachs. We knew it was time to find jobs and a place to live, but somehow it didn’t sink in until we drove into town that day.

At first we were overwhelmed. For such a small town (population around 13,000) the downtown was bustling with tourists. It is hard to believe people when they said that things are really slow. There are restaurants, bars, and cafes every way you turn and somehow more outdoor adventure tour shops than anything. We found papers, job and housing boards, and listings and began our search.

Much to our surprise there were more than 30 rooms for rent that fit what we wanted. Evidently we came at a good time. Staying in holiday parks and hostels in a place this popular is expensive so we wanted to get into a place ASAP. Within a day we looked at four or five spots and found our new home. There were fancier rooms with amazing views and more modern designs, but most of them were houses we would be sharing with housemates who we did not meet. In the nicest place the modern, spacious kitchen had an obviously old layer of filth coating every surface exposed. Though the guy we would be living with wasn’t there it was very clear that cleanliness and respect for the home were not at the top of his priority list.

We found our current place a bit randomly. It is neither a house nor a hostel. It is more like a motel of sorts that advertises short or long-term housing. We kind of assumed we wouldn’t like it, but during the tour we saw a big communal kitchen that was clean. There is a six burner new gas stove and the manager explained to us that they are really strict about people keeping the communal area clean. They even have a surveillance camera in the kitchen. It sounds weird, but after the places we’ve seen the cleanliness was the deciding factor. It even turned out that they had a separate unit from the main building that was an add-on one bedroom apartment above the garage. It doesn’t have a real kitchen, but it is spacious and the skylights look out to the mountains and lake below. Plus we are just outside the door to the big kitchen.

One of the most difficult adjustments has been internet access. We liked that this place had broadband wireless internet included, which you share with all 12 units. We both assumed that meant they had unlimited high speed internet, but we all know what assuming does. As it turns out there really is no such thing as unlimited internet access in New Zealand. All broadband usage has a limit. For example, in our place once the broadband limit has been reached you can only get really slow internet and for that you have to go to the entry way, where they box is, and plug into the Ethernet. Things as common to many of us as Skype suck up broadband so we are asked to not use it on the house network. Of course it is difficult to limit people especially when many are only staying for a week or so. I usually do get ok coverage in our place except from around 5 to 8 or 9 pm when everyone else is online as well. And right when we moved in it was the end of the broadband cycle so I mostly had to plug directly into the modem. Getting your own internet is also incredibly expensive and very limiting so I am taking a deep breath and adjusting – transitioning from my always-connected blackberry to my flaky, sometimes functional New Zealand wifi.

On the job front we also jumped right into the search. Our first day in town we got mixed signals. Some gave the impression that jobs would be nearly impossible to find while others were more encouraging. We registered with a couple of the agencies on our list. At the first one the woman said she had call center / telemarketing work or nothing. When we declined she abruptly told us we wouldn’t find anything else and that there was no other work in town. The next woman wouldn’t let us leave when she heard what industry we were in. We also had dinner at a little Italian restaurant that had a “staff wanted” sign in the window so we gave our resumes to the owner.

We arrived last Wednesday afternoon and by Friday I had an interview that day, a trial shift at another place on Saturday, and Zach had a stage on Saturday (in restaurant speak that means you go in for a shift to see if you fit in the restaurant before they hire you) and another interview on Monday. Though you might think we were excited we both had sinking feelings about the whole thing. The jobs seemed very serious – all at some of the nicest, most well-known, spots in town. We came here to take a step back from our endlessly busy lives and get a chance to just be together and enjoy the world around us for a bit. At the same time we are, by nature, hard working people and always end up taking opportunities that are challenging and working a lot.

Naturally by Saturday night I had two job offers and Zach had one – only since he had yet to go to one interview. The restaurants we did trial shifts in on Saturday were owned by the same people so, even though we were at completely different places, it was also like we were trying out for the same people. By the end of my night they simply handed me a time sheet to fill out and told me to be back the next day at 4 pm and that I’d be taking tables by the end of that night. Both jobs I’d been offered were serving positions at “fine dining” restaurants. They expect you full-time, five nights a week, approximately eight hour shifts. The place I worked on Saturday we literally ironed the fresh white table cloths we replaced on each table when re-setting.

We went home that night, despite having had a good time drinking a beer with the crews from both restaurants, sad and discouraged. Is this what we came here for? Are we just going to end up on the opposite side of the world working more than full-time all over again not getting the chance to take a break? Why wouldn’t we just be making the money and working with the caliber of food that is in San Francisco if it was going to be the same lifestyle? We were sinking and sad.

Sunday morning we woke up gloomy, like a couple of Eeyores moping around our apartment. Finally we started talking again and we came to an agreement. We did not come here to get in that same rut all over again. We came here to be together, enjoy camping and hiking, and remember who we were outside of work. We even hope to begin strategizing a plan for our own café some day. In order to do that we need to consider where we want to live and how we could make what we want to do work. There is so much we have to talk and think about. If all we could do here was work then it really would not be worth it to be so far away from home. So, we decided to keep searching for more temporary, part-time employment. After a beautiful hour long walk to town we mustered up the courage to go to our new employers and turn down their offers. To our relief they took it incredibly well understanding that we were here to step back and couldn’t work at their places without sacrificing what we wanted. I’ll admit they fought a bit for Zach. Chefs are in demand like crazy here and I highly doubt they ever come across chefs that can actually cook. Still, they told him to come back and they would probably have shifts for him if he changed his mind.

Monday we went to a third temp agency where we found what we were looking for. At this place you get texts for available jobs with days and times and you simply say yes or no. There is no obligation; you can work as much or as little as you like. Zach’s position is the highest demand so there was work for him right away. I only currently have a shift coming up on Saturday, but I am hoping more will come soon. From what I heard from Zach today, on his break from his first temp shift, the work is simple and perhaps mundane, but we’re hoping it affords us the freedom we want outside of work. We’ll see how it all plays out. Our funds are lower than we want or need them to be and anxiety about how to make it all work is coursing through my veins, but I am standing strong in being here for a reason and sticking to it.

There have been feelings of frustration, home-sickness, and boredom on both our parts. All those things that you face when taking on an adventure like this are in our laps, now. We have little to do and no money to play with. The four channels on TV are boring us and streaming TV is out of the question. Zach, being the imaginative person he is, still is creating incredible meals out of the affordable ingredient options in the store. We are happy to be together, taking time to enjoy the simple beauty of the area and glad to be reminded of all the reasons we appreciate home. If nothing else we are sure having an experience!

If anyone feels like sending a letter snail mail our address is:

Jessie Malchik and Zach Farnes
The Lake House Loft 5
633 Frankton Rd.
Queenstown, New Zealand 9300

Middle Earth

Waiheke Island

Last Saturday I woke up before my alarm, which was set to 7:15 am. I know it is unlike me to wake up so early, but I was anxious so I got showered and Zach and I prepared to go car hunting. We had to check out of our hostel by 11:30 am and then we had no plan. We actually had a flight to Wellington that day already booked and paid for, but we decided to skip it and gamble on finding a car to buy and drive down the two islands to Queenstown. I know that it is good to try and take risks and live a little plan-free, but neither of us are used to that lifestyle. We had read, in the ever true and trusty Lonely Planet, that there was a car fair Saturdays and upon further research it appeared to be especially geared towards travelers and back-packers.

We planned to arrive an hour before the fair started so we would have the biggest selection. Unfortunately it somehow did not occur to either of us that we would probably have to pay for said car in cash until that morning. Frantically we went to ATM’s only to get repeatedly rejected from pulling out any money at all. Knowing this car fair only happens once a week, having already missed the chance to catch our connecting flight, and time ticking away we tried not to panic. Luckily there is an international number on our Wells Fargo cards and the very kind Wells Fargo operator not only fixed our ATM issue, but also did his best to reassure me along the way. Off we went to the car fair still managing to be over a half an hour early.

When we arrived we discovered all sellers and no buyers. Perhaps the other travelers were still hung-over in their hostels or perhaps it was just our returning luck but we were the only ones shopping amongst a good 20 vehicles. We found Simone, a Mitsubishi V3000 station wagon. Her two female Canadian owners named her that because the cozy bed made up in the back reminded them of Simmons mattress commercials back home in Montreal. Zach and I shortened it to Moaners, a nick-name of one of his old sous chefs named Simone at SPQR.

Before we knew it we were on the road south out of the city headed on an adventure. With no real itinerary in mind we picked a couple of Lonely Planet recommendations to hit along our route and otherwise kept the plans light and flexible. The scenery once out of the city was incredible. It was endless drastic rolling hills, which the road hugged and followed. It was also incredibly green, like a modernized Shire in all directions. The roads in New Zealand live up to their reputation in the guidebooks. Don’t expect freeways. Instead you will find lots of winding, hilly roads many of which barely count as two lanes. I find the drivers to be a bit insane as they don’t seem to mind if they come around a blind curve hugging a hill and happen to be in your lane. They just swerve abruptly and continue on. Many bridges are one-lane as well as many of the roads we’ve explored. At first it was tough to get used to, but we drove cautiously and have stayed clear of the crazies.


A sunset from our first campsite

Our first destination was a spot called Waitomo Caves where we discovered there was no cheap camping only cool looking cave tours we could not afford so we continued on the road. We found, via a DOC brochure (Department of Conservation – campsite brochure), a campground not far south, or so we thought. Directions on the maps and in the brochures leave much to be desired and road signs are all but absent. Thus we made our turn on to a gravel road with much apprehension, but its an adventure so we went for it. The road was another incredibly scenic route showcasing distant volcanos and lush forests, however the road itself seemed to be barely holding on to the side of the hills with big gravels slides and ruts popping up after blind turns. After hours, literally, we found our road to the campsite. They did not list how many kilometers in it would be so again we went on a one lane gravel road for an hour before finally finding the campground. There, in the freezing cold already night, we set up camp. Too cold and tired to deal with cooking we ate beans out of a can and admired the incredible, clear night sky. It may sound like we had a stressful journey but with no real plan the adventure and views were well worth the uncertainty. In the end we were camped amongst several hunters so we weren’t even as isolated as we felt.

In the crisp morning we set off south and took another planned detour. Whanganui River Road winds for about 80 kilometers or more along the Whanganui River. Lonely Planet describes it as “impossibly scenic” and I can think of no better description. The road was, once again, one lane and mostly gravel, but it didn’t matter. We were stopping constantly to take pictures and gasp anyway. Once we met back up with the main road our day felt complete, but we still had a ways to drive and had yet to figure out a stopping place for the night. We ended up in Wellington camping at a suburb holiday park, which is similar to our KOA style campground except these often have hostels and campsites as well as game-rooms with computers for checking email.


Whananui River

The next morning we boarded an 8 am ferry to Picton on the South Island. The ferry takes over 3 hours and I will tell all of you I do NOT recommend it if you get motion sick. I survived thanks to my wristbands, ginger beer, and thankfully mostly calm waters.

We drove off the ferry ready to travel a couple hundred kilometers and head to an already pre-planned DOC campground. About 40 kilometers past Picton we hit road construction, which is when Zach noticed the heat fluctuate on Moaners gage. Nervously we pulled over and found a radiator host spewing steam. Of course we had no tape. The radiator fluid was empty. The only tape-like substance I could find was a tin of fashion tape I use on button-up shirts to keep them from opening at my boobs. Zach taped the hose with my fashion tape and we filled the radiator with water. Each 15 kilometers we pulled over filling more water in the radiator and checking the split in the hose. Amazingly the fashion tape did the job; it’s a letter to Cosmo in the making ;) When we found a phone the New Zealand version of AAA, known as AA here, directed us to a service station in a coastal town called Kaikoura, which was about 80 kilometers south.

Of course during all this the road we were on turned onto the eastern coast of the south island, which was so breathtaking we couldn’t even get upset. We were stressed, of course. We’d already spent massive amounts more than we planned on the vehicle, traveling, and on gas alone, which is roughly $10 / gallon here. Campsites were hard to find and holiday parks were expensive. Food was incredibly expensive and forget about the cost of things like beer. Now we were in for some amount of repair on our car in a town we knew nothing about. Yet, somehow, we were laughing. We were stressed and then immediately stunned by the crystal blue seas growing more beautiful around each bend. It is as though the Ocean just wanted to remind how small a radiator hose was relative to what this world has to show us.

We arrived in Kaikoura and the mechanic was immediately friendly and helpful. The fix plus a radiator flush and fill was less expensive than we thought the catch being he couldn’t do it until the morning. With only hostels and holiday parks nearby we found a cute little cabin in a cheap holiday park. It was just a bed, no bedding, and electricity, but it was a nice. The town sits on a little peninsula surrounded by the impressively crystal water and behind it, past the valley, there were hills blanketed in clouds. To calm ourselves we walked to a café where we indulged in potato wedges and a meat and cheese plate, which turned out to be the best meal we’d had in ages. They made everything in house sharing all our beliefs in real food made by real people. We then took advantage of our time by reorganizing Moaners and all of our stuff before watching movies in our cozy little cabin.


Moaners in front of our little cabin

When we awoke at 7:45 am to take Moaners to the mechanic we both were shocked at the scene out our window. The clouds had lifted and revealed jetting, snow-capped mountains just inland from the town’s valley. A place like this exhists?! Snow and surf right here?! The whole scene took both our breaths away. So, this minor car tragedy brought us nothing but good things despite a bit of unwanted spending.
On the mechanic’s recommendation we took the inland road down the coast. Much to my delight we came around one hilly curve to find a huge flock of sheep making their way up the road. The shepherd told us to keep driving so we coaxed them along with the car giggling and taking pictures. I jokingly asked the shepherd if this was a tourist attraction to which he replied with a smile, “somethin’ like that.” We drove for many hours through hills and valleys and watched the Southern Alps appear majestically in the distance, otherwise known as the Misty Mountains to those of us who are LOTR geeks. We headed inland past Christchurch and passed mountain-ringed lakes with a sediment that makes them a bright, fairy-tale blue. We then found a campground along a quiet river where friendly locals and travelers alike stopped to say hi and share a story or a laugh or both. Most of these types we’ve encountered have been quite a bit older than us, and have an easy friendliness that is quickly becoming addictive. Everyone is happy to hear our plan and encourages us on our road.


In front of one of the jaw-droppingly beautiful lakes

We awoke to a hot morning near the river. After a quick breakfast we hit the road to Queenstown via another jaw dropping road through mountain passes. We arrived just after 1 pm to an almost overwhelmingly bustling downtown. I would imagine it is a bit what Aspen is like though I’ve never been there. It is a lot like Sun Valley, Idaho except busier. Immediately nervous squirrels hit both of our stomachs. Oh yeah, we have to job and house hunt now! We found another cabin in a holiday park nearby to spend a couple nights and get our heads screwed on strait. Evidently the “season” hasn’t started yet though you would think it was in full swing downtown. We found a paper that had about 30 or so rooms or apartments for rent that are walking distance from town and within our budget. We also saw a few help wanted signs in restaurant windows. Now it is just calling, applying, and deciding and hoping it all somehow comes together.

Though we are anxious we are also happy. Looking out of our cheap holiday park window mountain peaks my brain still doesn’t believe are real cut the sky behind a strikingly blue lake. The air smells of jasmine and birds sing endless songs. I know, I sound like I’m describing a classic Disney cartoon, but this is real. I have no idea how things will turn out over the next couple weeks but regardless the journey thus far has been well worth it.

Crying in Airports - Family Time

At the Circus

When I left you last we were in Moscow headed to the circus, one of my favorite things there. True to its form the circus was fantastic. We ate cotton candy and ood and ahd at the shows. For the remaining last few days in Russia we tried our best to relish being there, far away from all we know and can stress about. We went to the BB King club to see a guy sing some old rock 'n roll, which is one of the recurring bonding experiences I share with my papa. We also saw the ancient Egyptian exhibit at the Pushkin museum, which blew my mind. There were not only real mummies, but writing tablets, vases, and various artifacts from as far back as 2500 BC.

I have a lot of memories of airports. For much of my life as a kid I was saying hello and goodbye to family members I desperately wished I could hold on to in airports and occasionally in train stations. I think there is some kind of familiar comfort I now associate with that deep sadness I feel to say goodbye as I disappear across security lines. Inevitably tears fall. I hugged my papa more times than I can count with Zach gently touching my back to remind me he was there for my tears. It was hard to let go and hard to know it was going to be yet another long stretch before I saw my dad again. We had such a memorable yet relaxing time in Moscow and I am incredibly happy that I got to show Zach what that part of my world is like.

Our flight to New York had one child on it and of course that girl sat in front of us. We were exhausted and not even kind of in the mood for her jumping around and screeching. By the time we landed in JFK I found myself glaring at her more than anyone should glare at a four-year-old. My sister, Nia, greeted us with my brand new niece in her arms. Alex, short for Alexandra, was so sweet at mellow our attitude towards smalls quickly improved.


Zach at Nia and Ian's favorite farm

Nia, her husband, Ian and their kids, John and Alex, live about 60 miles north of NYC up the Hudson River. I visited a few times before but never at such an idyllic time of year. The trees were turning all the colors a west-coaster would wish for from the east coast making the rolling hills look like paintings in all directions. There are train trestles and bridges over streams, rivers, and the massive Hudson everywhere you turn, much to my nephew's delight.

We didn't attempt to fill our schedule in New York with too much. Mostly we bought food from nearby farms and the famous Fleishers butcher shop and created yummy meals at home. I am afraid we over-stuffed Nia and Ian, but it was so fun to indulge in familiar ingredients again and build big flavor. I should say it was so fun for me to eat it all because Zach did the creating.


John enjoying his Zach-made biscuits, home-made jam, and especially the Fleisher's bacon

One day we made the hour and a half train trip to the city. We walked from Grand Central down to the East Village where we visited a bunch of Zach's old co-workers from the A16 - SPQR group at their restaurant, Pulino's. It was great to see their faces, find out how they really are and hear about their lives outside of facebook posts. We wandered around the area a bit more before heading back, but due to our budgetary restrictions we didn't explore any other restaurants. Besides that we'd been eating so well at home that I had no desire to eat anything Zach didn't cook. I am lucky!

Once again we were at JFK as though the week was gone in a blink. All the airport sadness rushed back into my chest as I hugged Nia goodbye and taunted baby Alex into giving me one last toothless smile. Landing in San Francisco we were greeted by my other sister, Sasha, and my niece Ellie.

Sasha, Mike, Ellie, and Emma live in Santa Cruz. Most of you know about them as I lived with them and / or near them for years. My one regret during our week there is that it was time for us to cope and prepare for our big trip to New Zealand therefore I didn't have all the energy I would've liked to play with them. Still we got in a lot of quality time with the girls. They, naturally, adore Zach (otherwise know as Zachy). He created a burrito feast for Emma's third birthday. We also got to ask my brother-in-law, Mike, to be the officiant of our wedding, which was especially fun to toast to.

Once again we did not try to do too much as we do not have much money to spend. I was a bit emotional at the farmer's market since there is nothing like the abundance in California. It makes me hungry just thinking about it. We finished off the week taking the girls trick-or-treating - so fun! Our little tiger and dragon did very well in filling up their pumpkins in the neighborhood.



As our time in Santa Cruz came to an end an odd set of emotions began to build for both Zach and I. We were leaving. We didn't know for how long, what to expect, or what would be following our adventure. We have very little money, but the dream of a brief escape from all of life's heavy responsibilities. I lived near my family in Santa Cruz for the better part of 12 years and now that all was about to change. Zach had been in San Francisco for five working his but off.

I could go on for a while about the stresses of life that I've been reflecting on - how difficult it is in America today for people without financial support to just live. I have learned a lot in the past six weeks about the toll working so hard has taken on me, but also about how I do not want to live that life any more. Zach and I are designed to be hard-working and motivated, but there is a balance in life that everyone needs and we just hope to learn how to find it. With the little bit of time we've had so far we feel even more driven to start our own business some day knowing that it will be a massive amount of work, but hoping that we can create our life to integrate into our work, together. I am so lucky to have him! Have I said that yet? :)

After another 12 hour flight we landed in Auckland. Unfortunately we had a baby behind us that kicked the seats all night long. Remind me when we fly home to request seating NOT near a baby or child! We are still adjusting to the ease and friendliness of this country. It is incredibly expensive but we have a small kitchenette making our cost of food a lot less. Still, it already is an easy place to love. Tomorrow morning we are headed to a car fair where we hope to purchase a cheap vehicle and then start heading down the north island. We also hope to take a few days to make the trip to Queenstown which is a decent way down the south island. There we are hoping to find work and housing. If it doesn't work out we will go to Wellington and try our luck there, but finger's crossed the little mountain town of Queenstown treats us well.

Love to you all and thanks for reading!
(also keep checking the picture folders on the right for more photos)